The Dreaded Twin Needle (duh duh duuuuhn)

Really, the twin needle is your best ally for sewing up knits on a traditional sewing machine! Don’t be afraid! There are a few things that I can show you to help you on your way to twin-needle rockstar status… Here is a link to a video where I explain different kinds of twin needles, how to thread up your sewing machine for twin needle sewing, a bit of troubleshooting advice, and lastly, comparing and contrasting with a coverstitch machine.
I realized that although I had said in my head that the numbers for the twin needle sizes (eg- 2.5, 4.0, 6.0, etc) are the distances in mm between the needles, those words never actually were said in my actual tutorial. Oops!
I had the honor of sharing this snippet of advice on Facebook’s Sly Fox Fabrics Sew Along group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/SlyFoxFabricsSAL/), so please give them some love! They have great fabrics and great sew alongs!!

#twinneedletutorial #theSpaceInBetween #KnitSewingHero #Twinning #TwinNeedleNinja #NotTwinemies

Day 2 of the SewLaura SAL: Construction Zone!

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No need to bust out a hard hat, but it is Construction Day!! Day 2 of the Sinclair Patterns’ #SewLaura Sew Along (SAL), hosted/sponsored by Sly Fox Fabrics will cover all of the construction steps of the pattern’s tutorial. I have provided a video that covers every step, and is available at Sly Fox Fabrics Sew Along Group on Facebook.
Items to highlight (as to not give away all of Sinclair Patterns’ trade secrets of awesome construction) are:
1) When stabilizing shoulder seams, you should leave some lead and lag bits to your stabilizer as it goes through the machine. You never was clear elastic to come into contact with the feed dogs or to be reused. You want to make sure that it is facing up at all times.
2) When attaching the pockets to the bottom panel, you want to make sure that you attach the interfacing to the Wrong side of your bottom panel and the pocket gets sewing to the Right side of the bottom panel in the same location.
3) When you are attaching your bottom panel to the bodice, you want to make sure that you Outline the pockets when you are sewing and not straight across the top.
4) If you decide to construct ties or use closure hardware, make sure to include the interfacing Inside of the collar (Wrong side of the fabric would have the Piece #8 interfacing being ironed to it). You want to ensure that you iron it where your placement will be. Everyone feels a little differently about where they want that closure, but it is suggested to have it placed 1-2 inched from the waist. In this case, you would need to reinforce this particular area on the Inside of the collar by ironing on that interfacing there. If you prepare and place ties, you would sandwich them in between the shawl collar and the edge of the bodice that you are attaching the collar to.
5) In this pattern, you will see how important the ironing really is to be able to have things like your interfacing adhere, but also to keep your collar laying flat, as well as having the hem marker for your sleeve hems.

I chose to go ahead and include the sleeve hemming discussion on Day 2’s video because it was the last step, and it would give you more time to work at your own pace and to ask any questions. (Also, I was SUPER excited to finish, if I’m honest. Hahaha)

Day 3, will be catchup day and questions, but you can TOTALLY hold off on the hemming until whenever you are ready. Pics Must be in the Pic thread by Friday in order to be considered to win a prize in Sly Fox Fabrics Sew Along Group.

Can’t wait to see your Laura Cardigans!!

#Day1 of the Sinclair Patterns’ Laura Cardigan SAL, hosted/sponsored by Sly Fox Fabrics

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Today, we will all print out and prepare our patterns, prepare our fabrics and cut out our pattern pieces in our prepared fabric.
In case you haven’t done a Sew Along (SAL) before (or never worked with a PDF pattern, or are new to sewing), I will try to take these blog posts slowly and with lots of explanations.
For the Laura Knit Cardigan pattern from Sinclair Fabrics, you want to use between 2.25-2.5 yards of light to midweight knits that are easy to manipulate, such as double knit, ponte, sweater knit, or interlock.  We all need to wash our fabric before we start anything, as it takes a minute for the dryer to be done with our precious fabrics. It is important to launder prior to cutting and sewing up your pattern to avoid any issues with puckering or shrinkage later on.
All of you should have purchased your copy of the Laura cardigan pattern from SinclairPatterns.com. Now, you need to log into the Sinclair Patterns website, download, and print the Memo, Tutorial (optional), and your size range (petite is 5’1″-5’3″; regular is 5’4″-5’6″; and tall is 5’7″-5’9″).  You will want to choose the size closest to your full bust measurement to print out.  You want to print page one of your pattern first in “Actual Size”, so you can test the printed page key to make sure that your ruler and key match at the 1 inch by 1 inch markers.
Once you have printed your pattern as “Actual Size”, you will trim your pages. The tutorial suggests top and left to be trimmed, but I have always trimmed bottom and right for years, and that works on this pattern, too. Next, you will tape your patterns together, and then cut out the pattern pieces.
There is a suggested layout (located in the tutorial) for the pattern pieces onto the fabric that will help you in maximizing the usage of your fabric. I use pattern weights to help me keep the pattern piece down as I use my rotary cutter. Others use chalk to outline before cutting with scissors. Please note on the pattern piece, it mentions which fabric to cut, which direction, if on a fold or not, and how many of that piece you will need.
Once you have cut out your fabric, you are done with Day 1! Yay!! Buckle your seatbelts! Tomorrow is going to be the Construction of the Laura Cardi day!